Happy to say and not so happy to say that the bike has been kicking my ass for so long because my f-ing cousin left a plastic bag in the intake when he was painting it. Somewhere I have a factory manual for my Rl250, I'll dig it up tomorrow after work and report back. I even called Suzuki directly and they said they no longer have it on file because of the age of the bike. I have the clymer manual but it is nowhere as detailed as other clymer manuals I have. Should have also added if anybody has the full service manual for this bike and would be willing to share it somehow or if you know where I can find it online somewhere that would be amazing.
Manual lists it as 6.7:1 ratio and I read that the compression taken needs to be multiplied by the atmospheric pressure where/when compression is taken to get PSI is that right? I will be doing it again today because the first time I did it I used the adapter for my compression tester with threads that were shorter than the spark plug threads which adds that much more room to the compression chamber and in turn changes the compression reading. If anyone has compression specs besides what I have below on what the PSI should be when checking regular compression through spark plug hole on this model id appreciate that too. I believe this was the last model year WITHOUT reed valves. Compression specs, methods, whatever you got. If everything checks out properly we will be turning our attention back to electrical.Īnything you have to add is appreciated. Reason for doing this is because regular compression test checked out okay (i think.keep reading) the bike seems to have spark compression and fuel but does not want to run and its driving us nuts. Think I have everything in order to do it but figured it cant hurt to throw this on here to get everyones thoughts.
Getting my thoughts together to do a differential/leak down compression test (TWO STROKE) around noon.
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